Glossary of Hosiery Terms

A

B

C

D

E

F

G

H

I

J

K

L

M

N

O

P

Q

R

S

T

U

V

W

X

Y

Z

A

Abrasion Resistance

The degree to which a fabric is able to withstand rubbing and chafing within the shoe. Many socks and sheer hosiery products are reinforced, usually with nylon to improve durability.

Afterwelt

The area of knitted fabric just below the double turned fabric in stockings. It is usually made of the same yarn as the welt and is only one layer in thickness. Also known as 'Underwelt'.

Air-Covered/Mactex (Yarn)

The process of air entangling a false twist textured yarn around the extended core. This is accomplished by forcing compressed air into a jet device through which both the core and cover yarns travel, entangling or lacing the cover yarn around the core.

Alpaca

Extremely fine, soft, and costly yarn derived from the hair of a domesticated Peruvian llama.

Angora

A yarn made from the hair of the angora rabbit. It is prized for its soft feel and fluffy look, is often used in blends, and adds great warmth to socks. Angora is now often simulated by the use of speciality acrylic fibers.

Appliqué

Any pre-prepared fabric decoration which is sewn or ironed onto a hosiery product.

Argyle

Geometrically knit pattern that produces a balanced design of multicoloured diamond figures against a solid colour background.

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B

Bember

A lightweight, 100% rayon that is rich in feeling. Bember is reknowned for not creating static electricity like many synthetic products.

Bird's-eye

A small, evenly spaced pattern in a diamond design.

Blended

Textile materials made of a combination of two or more fibers, yarns or filaments.

Blends

The combination of two or more types of fibre in one yarn to achieve improved performance or styling effects.

Boarding - Socks:

In this operation the sock is stretched either dry or moist over flat metal or wooden forms conforming to the desired sock shape and size. It is then pressed between two heated surfaces. This gives the sock form a smooth appearance. It is a process similar to ironing.

Boarding -Sheers:

A full-shaped heat setting operation in which stockings are put on metal leg forms for a specific size and shape and then dried in a steam cabinet. The process is done after dyeing. The term "boarding" stems from the olden days when wooden boards were used to dry stockings. (See Pre-Boarding, Semi-Boarded, and the Intech Process.)

Boot

The portion of the stocking leg running from below stocking welt area to the toe.

Boot Fabric

The leg portion of fabric in hosiery.

Brand

The name used to identify a product, such as hosiery or fibre, which comes from a particular manufacturer.
a) Branded hosiery is that which is marketed and usually advertised nationally, under one name which guarantees the same quality regardless of where it is purchased. (See unbranded.)
b) Name used to identify fibre from which stockings are knit.

Bruised Fabric

Sheer nylons cannot stand coming in contact with any hard surface and contacted by another hard object. This action will bruise the fabric sufficiently to cause a rupture when placed under strain.

Bulk

This term is usually used when referring to textured multifilament yarn. Multifilament twisted yarn with low turns produces low bulk or lean yarn. High twist multifilament yarn produces high bulk yarn. The degree of bulk can be built into the yarn by the throwster as desired.

Bulk Yarn

Yarns which have been treated physically or chemically so as to have a notably greater "apparent volume". Bulk is usually obtained when using textured multifilament yarn.

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C

Cable

A knitted pattern usually made up of two vertically intertwined bands.

Calf-High

The name used for short-length stockings that come up to the calf of the wearer.

Cashmere

Luxuriously soft, expensive yarn made from the undercoat of the Kashmir goat.

Circular Knit

The major knitting method in hosiery construction. Yarn is knitted into hose using a cylindrical tube. Toes are later sewn and a waistband added.

Clock

A knitted or embroidered ornament on a stocking, usually running up the side.

Colourfast

Fabric with dye retention such that no significant change in shade takes place during the normal life of the sock.

Continuous Filament

A fibre produced in a single, uncut strand rather than cut into short fibers such as cotton or wool. Also used to describe yarns which are not spun.

Cotton Count

An indirect yarn numbering system generally used for yarns spun on the cotton system; the number of 840 yd. lengths of yarn per round.

Cotton Fibre

A soft and heat-resistant vegetable fibre used in garments since 3,000 BC It absorbs and retains moisture, is readily washable, and is available in a wide variety of types and qualities. Long staple combed cotton is generally considered to provide the finest quality cotton yarn for socks.

Cotton Sole

A cotton insert sewn or knit into the sole of the stocking.

Course

A series of adjacent loops forming a horizontal line across the knitted fabric. Small horizontal stitches mean more yarn has been used, resulting in finer fabric, greater elasticity, and longer wear.

Crochet

A knitting process that creates a fabric by a series of interlocking loops rather than rows of stitches. Needlework that is used to form an ornamented design on the hose whether it is sheer or "wool-like" in texture.

Cuban Heel

A flat-topped (or squared-off) reinforced heel extending slightly up the back of the leg in a fully-fashioned stocking.

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D

Decals

Designs printed on paper and transferred to the stocking by means of heat and pressure. A term used interchangeably with "heat transfer".

Decitex

The metric measuring system used to indicate weight per unit length of yarns in Europe. (It is numerically equal to the weight, in grams, of 10,000 metres of yarn.)

Demi-Toe

Stocking with a nude, sheer heel and reinforced toe. A popular fashion with slingback shoes.

Denier

Denier is the weight-per-unit-length of the yarn. (It is numerically equal to the weight, in grams, of 9,000 metres of yarn. Thus 9,000 metres of 15 denier nylon, used in nylon stockings, weighs 15g/0.5oz,and in this case the thickness of thread would be 0.00425 mm/0.0017in.) The lower the denier, the lighter and finer the yarn, and the sheerer the garment. Hose knit of higher denier yarns tend to be more durable. An average hair from the human head is about 50 denier. The lowest denier nylon ever produced for stockings was 6 denier which was exhibited at the Nylon Fair in London in 1956.
(See also illustrated vintage advert for Taylor Woods fully-fashioned stockings)

Deodorant

A chemical additive introduced to hosiery during the finishing process to control sock odour. Originally used in athletic hosiery. Deodorants control odour by inhibiting the growth of odour causing organisms.

Detailing

Any material applied to the sock body after manufacture, such as lace, stitched monograms or insignia, fringes, sewn-on cuffs, etc.

Double-Reinforcement

Two thread lines, usually nylon or polyester, knitted into portions of the stocking foot to achieve added abrasion resistance, most commonly at the heel and/or toe.

Drop Stitch

When a needle on a knitting machine does not form a knitted loop.

Dupont Nylon

Dupont were the original manufacturers of nylon for use in hosiery. A stocking bearing this on the imprint is likely to date to before the mid 1950's, and generally implies that the stocking was made in the United States.

Dyeing

The permanent application of colour to a yarn or fabric.

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E

Elastic

A term which designates the ability of a yarn to return to its original size or shape after being stretched.

Elasticity

The ability of a strained material to recover its original size and shape immediately after removal of the stress that caused deformation.

Embroidery

The application of designs of decorative trim by machine or hand sewing.

Ethnic

Usually sheer hosiery (knee-high,stockings) dyed in colours designed to compliment the natural skintones of various ethnic population groups.

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F

Fabric

Specifically in hosiery, the word is used to refer to that which is knitted on hosiery machines from fibre.

Fabric Stretch

The amount of stretch in fabric from the relaxed state to the fully-extended stretch.

Fabric Recovery

The ability of fabric to recover from the fully extended state to the original flat state before extending.

Fair Isle

Any nordic or snowflake patterning.

Faux Seam

A false (faux) seam sewn into the back of a seamless stocking of circular knit hosiery.

Feeds

This term is normally used in conjunction with circular knitting machines and literally means how many yarns are fed into a machine at each revolution to knit continuous rows of stitches.

Fibre

Natural or man-made units of matter which can be spun into a yarn or made into a fabric by various methods including weaving, knitting, braiding, felting and twisting. The essential properties for fibers to be spun into yarn include a length of at least 5 millimetres, flexibility, cohesiveness, and sufficient strength. Other important properties include elasticity, fineness, uniformity, durability, and lustre.

Filament

The finished fibre used in sheer hosiery is called filament yarn. It is characterised by continuous length and is extruded either as monofilament yarns, which is composed of one single strand, or multifilament yarn which is made up of several filaments bundled together.

Filament Count

The number of individual filaments that make up a thread or yarn.

Filament Yarn

A yarn composed of long strands of synthetic fibers which continue the entire length of the yarn. The basic yarns used in ladies hosiery are all filament yarns. To describe the size of filament yarns, the term denier(weight-per-unit-length) is used.

Finishing

Includes all sock and sheer hosiery manufacturing steps excluding knitting and sewing. For socks, it includes bleaching, scouring and dyeing, boarding, pairing, ornamentation, folding and packaging. For sheers, it includes dyeing, boarding, pairing, and packaging.

Fishmouth Toe

A method for closing a non-reciprocated toe in which the seam runs parallel to the bottom of the foot rather than across the top of the toe.

Fishnet

Knitted stockings with a very wide open knit resembling a fish net. Very stylish and fashionable, but very porous providing little warmth or protection or cosmetic covering.

Fit

It is the combination of yarn and construction that determines the adaptability of hosiery and bodywear to the human form. Stretch and recovery of yarns and knit construction contribute to a garment's fit.

Flammability

The test to determine if fabric will ignite under controlled conditions.

Flat/Plain Knit

The second most widely used construction. Sock fabric knitted on a single cylinder machine and producing a fine, smooth surface with a jersey-like appearance. Used for casual socks of all types, some varieties of work socks, for children's hosiery, and in socks where the distinction is achieved by the yarn or by treatments such as embroidery, appliqués, or small neat patterns.

Flat Yarn

This term is often used by knitters and coverers to indicate raw yarn they use. Flat yarns have no stretch unless they are textured. They are also used as the alternate course in many sheer spandex styles. (See Raw Yarn)

Float Loop

The needle is not raised and the yarn which should have been associated with the needle goes behind the needle and appears as a float. The spandex elastic in the waistband is floated into the garment.

Flocking

Design applied to a boot, usually soft and fuzzy in appearance.

Full-Fashioned

Full-fashioned stockings are knitted flat, and the two sides are united afterwards by a seam up the back. As a result of decreasing stitches over the calf to make the hose narrower in the ankle, small "fashion markings" or loops are visible running parallel to either side of the seam. The popularity of the full fashioned stockings, at a peak immediately after World War II, has declined since the introduction of seamless hosiery.

Fully-Fashioned

The British equivalent of Full-fashioned.

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G

Gauge

The measurement of the distance between needles in a knitting machine. Two-thirds of the gauge equals the number of needles per inch. For example, on a 60 gauge machine there are 60 needles to 1.5 inches(37mm). Thus the lower the number, the looser the knit, and the stocking is likely to be more sheer. (See also illustrated vintage advert for Taylor Woods fully-fashioned stockings)

Glimmer

This term refers to a light reflection from the yarn, mainly from a trilobal yarn which gives the glimmer effect by reflecting the light.

Gore

The centre of the heel or toe pocket, created in the knitting process, sometimes giving the appearance of a seam.

Graduation

The tapering of the leg from the top to the bottom by tightening the stitches to give a proper fit at the ankle, knee and thigh.

Greige

(pronounced "grey") Greige goods are any fabric as it comes off the knitting machine before bleaching, scouring, or dyeing.

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H

Hand

The tactile qualities of a fabric such as softness, elasticity, fineness and resilience.

Handle (Hand)

The reaction to the sense of touch when fabrics are grasped in hand. Many factors which give"character" combine in the judgement as to handle.

Heat Transfers

The application of a design or logo to a stocking by transferring a design from specially printed paper to the fabric by means of heat and pressure. A term used interchangeably with "decals" and "imprints".

High-Bulk Yarn

Qualitative term to describe a highly-twisted textured yarn. A bulked yarn develops more bulk than stretch in the finished fabric.

High Twist

A yarn spinning process in which more twist is used than is needed for normal processing to provide desired aesthetic properties such as harshness, brightness, or to reduce hairiness on the yarn surface.

Hole

Hosiery that has been ruptured by bruised, cut, burned, or a braided fabric to cause a hole to appear that will develop into a run.

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I

Ingrain Yarn

Yarn that has been dyed before knitting, requiring no further dyeing.

Intarsia

A geometric pattern knitted-in either with a different stitch or a different colour from the background. In intarsia knitting, both sides of the fabric look alike.

Intech Process

This semi-boarded process is not subjected to a full heat setting operation. (See Semi-Boarded)

Irregulars

Hosiery that contains minor imperfections in dimensions, size, colour or knit but without obvious mends, runs, breaks or substantial damage to yarn or fabric.

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K

Knee-Highs

Short hosiery that comes up to just below the knee. They are styled with elastic tops and stay up without the help of garters. They became very popular with the advent of women's slacks.

Knee Warmers

Thigh high knitted garment generally of heavier fabric that usually has no knitted foot and extends from above the ankle or calf over the knee to approximately mid-thigh.

Knit Loop

This is the normal basic loop in knitting.

Knitting

The art of constructing fabric on needles, by the interlooping of one or more yarns in several series of connected loops hanging on and supporting one another.

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L

Lace

Ladies sheer hosiery knitted with a pattern resembling lace and/or hosiery with lace seamed to the top of the leg.

Ladders

Stitches that have unchained due to broken stitches.

Lambswool

The first clip taken from a sheep up to seven months old, which explains its soft hand.

Lanolized

A finishing treatment applied to quality nylon stockings to enhance the silkiness of the feel of the stockings when new. Some stockings made in the early Dupont nylon were rather harsh to the touch, and this form of treatment improved the feel significantly.

Latch Needles

One type of needle used in hosiery machines. The needle performs the basic act of knitting, pulling one loop of yarn through another.

Leg Form

Form for displaying socks or sheer hosiery. Leg forms are weighted so that they are free-standing and can be designed to present one or a pair of stockings. The term, "leg form", may also describe the form used to pull a sock or sheer hosiery on for testing, and may designate the boarding forms used for shaping unboarded hosiery. May also be flat forms (e.g. NAHM forms for sizing).

Leg Length

The leg length is measured up the back of the stocking, from top of the welt to the point at which the heel turns from the foot to the leg when laid flat. Usually measured in inches.

Lisle

Hosiery made of lisle yarn, which is a fine, hard-twisted, long-staple cotton yarn with two or more ply.

Longfold

Step in hosiery production where merchandise is stored and prepared for final packaging.

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M

Man-Made Fibre

A class name for various genera of fibers (including continuous filaments) produced from fibre-forming substances which may be:
1) polymers synthesised from chemical compounds, e.g. acrylics, nylon, polyester, polyethylene, polyurethane, and polyvinyl fibers;
2) modified or transformed natural polymers, e.g., alginic and cellulose-based fibers such as acetates and rayons;
3) mineral, e.g., glass.

Marls

Multicoloured yarns in which each component strand is different colour.

Matte

Hosiery with a dull finish; minus a shine or lustre.

Mercerised

A cotton yarn which has been treated with a solution of caustic under conditions of caustic concentration and temperature which effect a permanent or irreversible swelling of the cellulose.

Merino

A fine grade of wool from sheep originating in Spain.

Mesh

An open knit used primarily to achieve a hand-knit, textured look.

Mesh Knit

A hosiery fabric produced in a variety of tiny patterns. Upon close inspection it looks like lots of fine zigzag lines. Actually, the knit is a variety of tiny patterns with loops interlocked. This kind of construction helps prevent runs,but a snag in a mesh stocking will generally leave a hole. The runguard, however, does use the mesh stitch.

Micro-Mesh

A seamless mesh stocking where the loops are knotted in one direction only. Because of this the stocking can run in one direction - from the foot up towards the welt.

Mock Seams

A false (faux) seam sewn into the back of a seamless stocking of circular knit hosiery.

Modulus of Elasticity

The determined ratio of stress versus strain that expresses the measure of elasticity in the hosiery fabric.

Monofilament Yarn

Yarn made of one single filament of fibre. We use this term to define a non-stretch nylon thread. (See Filament)

Multi-Feed Hosiery Machinery

A machine that is usually fed by two or more spools to knit stockings.

Multifilament Yarn

Yarn made of several filaments twisted or bundled together. (See Filament)

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N

Natural Fibers

Cotton, wool, or silk hosiery fibers.

Needle Count

The total number of needles used in knitting a sock or sheer hosiery product. The higher the needle count the closer the stitches and the finer the fabric. 400 needles is the norm for Micromesh stockings, but, curiously, a stocking knitted with 200 needles would have a more sheer appearance because the stitches would be further apart.

Non-Reciprocated

Socks or sheer hosiery knitted with no heel or toe pocket, e.g. tube socks.

Non-Run

Stockings with a special interlocking stitch that prevents runs (but not holes). Also called run-proof and run-less. Special processes under which the hosiery are manufactured are all designed to give the stocking extra life.

Non-Stretch

Garment manufactured without stretch yarns. Usually made of natural, ridged non-stretch fibers. Product has no compression or stretch ability which generally makes for a less satisfactory fit but is desirable for varying reasons such as fashion or medical conditions.

Novelties

Women's non-basic styles characterised by unusual patterning and/or coloration.

Novelty Yarns

Yarns showing unusual and fancy effects.

Nude Heel

Stocking without reinforcement in the heel area. The exact same knitting is used as in the boot or leg of the stocking. Enjoys a popular appeal thanks to the open-heeled or sling-back shoe.

Nylon

Man-made fibre introduced in 1938. It is the first and the oldest of the true synthetics. Chemically, nylon is a man-made polyamide fibre derived from coal, air, and water. This fibre is famous for its strength, abrasion resistance, dimensional stability, soft hand, elasticity, and easy-washing and quick-drying characteristics. There are two basic types of nylon used in hosiery. They are Type 6 and Type 6,6. Type 6 nylon is softer and has less memory when textured than Type 6,6. Most of the yarns used in ladies hosiery are made of Type 6,6 nylon to impart the maximum memory to the fabric. In socks, it is used primarily in men's dress socks, novelties, and as a reinforcement with other fibers. Another use for nylon in socks is the stretch filament nylon plaited with other fibers to obtain multi-sizes.

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O

Odour Preventive

Hosiery treated to kill bacteria which grow under warm, moist conditions such as in shoes, socks, or on the feet. This bacteria generally is odourless, and the compounds the hosiery is treated with inhibit bacteria growth.

One Size

The term applied to stockings that fit most sizes from very small to large.

Opacity

Degree to which light passes through, not transparent.

Opaque

Stockings made of yarn which give them heavier appearance, usually 40 denier or greater in weight.

Open-End Spun Yarn

Yarn-making process in which fibers are twisted and wrapped around each other by the use of a rapidly rotating rotor. The process is much faster than ring-spinning.

Outsize

Stockings proportioned to accommodate the heavier woman or the taller than average figure. (See Queen Size)

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P

Pairing

The finishing operation in which individual stockings are inspected and made into pairs prior to folding and packaging.

Pantyhose

A garment that combines both panty and stockings into a one piece waist-high garment that extends above the crotch, but not above the waist, to the toes.

Patterned

Socks or sheers having a design knitted into the garment or impressed on the side, front or over-all surface. (See Textures)

Pilling

When a fibre exceeds its abrasion level and the fibers begin to break and form a small ball of fibre on the fabric surface.

Plain/Flat Knit

The most common knit in hosiery, similar to a jersey or hand-knit stitch. Plain knit gives a smooth, sheer surface. (See Mesh)

Plied Yarn

When strands of single yarns are combined, twisted together, or air entangled, resultant yarn is referred to as "plied".

Pointelle

An open, lacy-look knit similar to crochet.

Popcorn Stitch

A pattern composed of a series of geometrically arranged round or lozenge-shaped raised areas; so-named because of their resemblance to popcorn.

Pouch Heel

A simulated or "false heel" in what is fundamentally a shaped tube sock. The heel effect is created in boarding. Unlike the tube, a pouch heel sock usually has a fishmouth toe.

POY (partially oriented yarns)

Nylon or polyester texturing feed yarns supplied by fibre producers to texturers for processing (texturing). Yarn is then sold to sheer hosiery, sock and half-hose knitters.

Pre-Boarding

After a stocking is knit, each stitch and loop is permanently set in place by an operation called "pre-boarding" or heat setting in a steam chamber. The stocking is placed on a metal leg form called a "board" and then given the steam treatment. Pre-boarding takes place prior to dyeing. (See Boarding)

Press-Off

Condition arising when hosiery presses off the machine and fails to knit, caused by slubs or knots in yarn, poorly wound cones, improper tension, machine in bad mechanical condition, etc.

Printing

Method of producing patterns or designs on hosiery by depositing colour or other treating material and fixing with steam, heat, or chemicals. There are many different methods for printing.

Proportioned Fit

Stockings specially designed to have different circumferences (foot, ankle, calf, and thigh) and lengths for each size wearer.

Pull Threads

A thread is snagged and pulled from the fabric causing tight stitches that rupture under strain to make holes and runs. The greatest hazard to sheer hosiery is a pulled thread. This accounts for approximately 80 percent of all ruined sheer hosiery products.

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Q

Queen Size

Stockings sized to fit the heavier woman. Queen size is usually considered an extension of standard garments into a larger size. Outsize, on the other hand, is considered a separate category of merchandise altogether (see Outsize).

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R

Rag Sock

Recycled fibre spun into usable yarn count to create a casual look.

Raw Yarn

Filament yarn which has no stretch and is untextured.

Rayon

A generic term for filaments made from various solutions of modified cellulose by pressing or drawing the cellulose solution through an orifice and solidifying it in the form of a filament. Rayon has a soft hand, high moisture absorbency and retention, and good dyeability and washability.

Reciprocated

In the usual knitting process, the sock is begun at the top and knitted toward the toe. Upon reaching the heel, the machine begins to move more slowly in a semicircular ("reciprocated") fashion to produce the heel pocket. It may be adjusted to reciprocate again at the toe to form a toe pocket. Not all socks have reciprocated toes and heels. For example, the basic tube styles have neither. The "fishmouth" toe closure is non-reciprocated but may be used on a stocking with a reciprocated heel.

Reinforced

The stress areas such as the toe or heel have been strengthened with yarns of heavier denier. The knit of reinforced areas of stockings is normally plain (flat) knit, as micromesh is more inclined to snag.

Ribbed

Vertical pattern of alternating ridges in socks and sheer hosiery. Design may be formed through differences in weight, in knit stitch or opacity.

Ring Spinning

A system of spinning using a ring and traveller take-up wherein the drafting of the roving and the twisting and winding of the yarn on to the bobbin proceed simultaneously and continuously.

Ring-Spun Yarn

Yarn prepared by drafting and twisting together individual fibers with the use of rings to achieve a desired yarn size.

Run-Resistant

Stockings knit with micromesh or tuck stitch patterns that resist runs in an upward direction.

Runguard

Acts as a deterrent to runs from the foot into the leg, or from the welt into the leg. It can be made of heavier yarn, or can be a change of stitch from plain to mesh.

Runs

Stitches that have unchained due to broken stitches.

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S

Sandal Heel

Stocking without reinforcement in the heel area. The exact same knitting is used as in the boot or leg of the stocking. Enjoys a popular appeal thanks to the open-heeled or sling-back shoe.

Sandalfoot Hosiery

This is a nude toe, meaning no heavier yarn in the toe than is in the leg.

Scouring

A process (soap bath) that removes chemicals, tints, impurities and foreign matter from socks during finishing.

Seamed

Hosiery manufactured in the old full-fashioned manner with a seam running up the back of the leg. In the past, these garments were manufactured by cutting fabric and sewing it together. Today these products are generally made on a full circular knitted two bases and a fake seam is added up the back for a particular fashion look.

Seamless

Stockings knit in one operation on circular machines (one continuous operation) so that no seaming is required up the back. (See Full Fashioned)

Seconds

Stockings with major imperfections which make them unsuitable for sale even as irregulars. The US Federal Trade Commission defines seconds as all hosiery which is not of first quality, does not qualify as "irregulars" and which contains runs, obvious mends, irregularities, substantial imperfections, or defects in material, construction or finish.

Semi-Boarded

These garments are not subjected to a full heat setting operation. In appearance they are slightly wrinkled and shapeless until stretched over the leg and body. This operation is sometimes called the Intech Process.

Service Weight

Generally considered to be a heavier weight garment for professional use such as nurses. Could be interchanged with opaques and are designed to provide longer wear life as compared to sheers.

Sheers

Dress sheers are hosiery fashioned generally of 15 or 20 denier yarn - to be worn for daytime glamour. Evening sheers are hosiery fashioned of wisp-weight 10,12, or 15 denier yarn - to be worn for special occasions.

Shetland

Originally a soft, warm shaggy yarn made only from wool of Shetland sheep. Now often used to describe yarns that offer Shetland characteristics.

Shrinkage

A reduction in size that takes place when a fabric is washed and dried, or when hosiery is finished.

Silk

The filaments obtained from the cocoons of various types of silkworms.

Single Covered (Yarn)

The process of wrapping one non-elastic filament or spun yarn around the extended core. Single cover yarn has torque.

Sinker

The sinkers are steel elements that are located between the needles. The sinker holds the previously knitted fabric and prevents the loop from rising up the needle and interfering with the knitting action. It also helps support the old loop for the needle to pull the new loop through.

Size

Foot size; length from back of heel to tip of toe. Usually measured in inches.

Skein-Relaxed

A method of applying bulk to a yarn by the controlled application of heat. This softens yarn texture and hand.

Sliver

A loose, soft, untwisted strand or rope of fibers used in making yarn. In diameter about the size of a man's thumb.

Slub Yarns

Any yarn made in an irregular diameter to achieve a nubby or knotted effect.

Snag

Same as pulled thread. (See Pull Threads.)

Splice

Knit-in reinforcement for areas of stress. Particularly effective in the panty of all nude garments.

Split Sole

The foot of a stocking made from two different materials.

Spun Yarns

Short lengths of fibre, of various lengths, are twisted together to form spun yarns. These yarns are more bulky than continuous filaments yarns, and are thus used in hosiery manufacturing of knee-highs and socks where a soft, fuzzy texture is desired.

Staple

Short lengths of fibre that are spun together to form yarn.

Stitch

A stitch is the basic repeating unit of the yarn pattern in forming a knitted fabric, consisting of the needle loop and sinker loop.

Stocking

A knitted, close-fitting covering for the foot and leg.

Strand

A single filament of fibre.

Stretch Yarns

Continuous filament yarns (e.g., nylon) that have been textured to give them elasticity.

Super Toe

A construction in which the fabric in the toe has considerably more density than normal. The addition of density in the forward part of the foot is so gradual that no change in appearance is visible. The wear life achieved is significantly improved over the normal nude toe.

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T

Tartan

Any traditional plaid design.

Tensile Strength

The ability of fabric or yarn to resist breaking by tension.

Terry

A looped pile construction used inside most athletic socks and some work socks.

Textured Yarns

Yarns modified so they have desirable properties such as "hand" (feel), increased softness,and greater fit latitude. (Same as stretch yarns).

Textures

A general term that includes all knitted-in patterns. Typical textures include cable, herringbone, basketweave, fisherman and pointelle.

Texturizing

A method of processing continuous filament yarns using heat and twist to give them bulk, elasticity, and/or better recoverability or "memory".

Thigh-Highs

Stockings that just reach the thigh and are held up by elastomer bands.

Throwing

Term used to describe the twisting of rayon, nylon, or silk yarns.

Tinted Hosiery

Hosiery dyed to fashion shades. It is created to blend with and enhance costume and shoe ensembles and to lend more grace and beauty to the leg.

Torque

A term used in the hosiery industry for defining a monofilament or multifilament yarn that has been textured to give residual stitch deformation in knitted hosiery, resulting in high sheerness.

Trilobal Yarn

Contrary to a round cross section of yarn, trilobal yarn is a cross section with three lobes. It reflects light and gives the finished product a glimmer or brilliance.

Tube Socks

Hosiery knit in the shape of a tube, usually on multi-feed machines. Tube socks are non-reciprocated -without a knit-in heel - and are primarily used as men's and boy's spectator athletic socks.

Tuck Loop

A tuck loop is formed by only partially raising the needle so the old loop does not clear, but rises sufficiently for feeding a new yarn into the hook. The old loop which did not clear is the held loop and the new yarn forms the tuck loop. When the needle is cleared on a subsequent course, the knit loop formed is pulled through the tuck loop in addition to the held loop. Tuck loops are used for runguards, in the band area, and some places in the panty. The tuck loops are also used to put in sewing marks and machine identification marks.

Turbo

A process in which large bundles of continuous filament fibers, called tow are stretched randomly, broken and drafted into sliver form. This sliver, with high shrinkage potential, is blended (or combined) with sliver having low shrinkage potential. After spinning this blend into yarn, the yarn is subjected to steam, and the resultant strains force the low shrinkage fibers to yarn surface as loops. This produces a yarn (and sock) with high bulk, softness and loft.

Twist

The number of turns about its axis per unit of length of a yarn. Normally, no more twist is placed in a yarn than is needed for strength and abrasion resistance. (See also "High Twist")

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U

Ultra Sheer

A fine denier fibre which gives the ultimate in sheerness. It is usually 20 denier or less and a low filament count.

Unboarded

Hosiery not subjected to pre-boarding or boarding operations in its manufacture. In appearance it is wrinkled and shapeless until stretched over the leg and body.

Unbranded

Applied to hosiery that is not marketed throughout the country under a recognisable name. Usually not nationally advertised.

Underwelt

A fabric knitted hem at the top of a stocking leg knit in heavier denier yarn between the welt and the leg of the stocking. Generally this is about half the weight of the welt, but in some cases (e.g. micromesh stockings) the knit is different and generally of a greater gauge. This is also sometimes known as the 'Afterwelt'

Utility Weight

A heavier weight ladies hosiery product generally designed for professionals such as nurses. Designed to provide longer wear life than sheer garments, but provide little leg flattering characteristics. Are synonymous with service weight hosiery.

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W

Wales

Vertical rows of stitches in a knitted construction.

Welt

A fabric knitted separately and machine-sewn to the top of the sock, or hem at the top of a stocking knit in heavier denier yarn and folded double to give strength for supporter fastening.

Wicking

The capacity of a fibre to transport moisture away from itself.

Wool

Wool is the soft, curly hair of a sheep which is spun into yarn. The wool family includes Shetland(Scottish) and Merino (Spanish) wool which are soft and of high quality. But most woollen yarn used in socks is made from standard grades produced in the US, Australia, and elsewhere. (Alpaca and cashmere are animal hairs but are not properly called wool.) Wool is warm, sturdy, and durable. It has a crisp, resilient hand and has excellent insulating properties.

Woollen

Yarns produced by the woollen system of spinning. Generally containing very short fibers, unevenly distributed and not parallel to each other.

Woollen Cut Count

An indirect yarn numbering system based on the number of 300 yd. lengths per pound.

Woollen Run Count

An indirect numbering system generally used for yarn spun on the woollen system; the numbered 1600 yd. lengths of yarn per pound.

Worsted

Yarns produced by the worsted system of spinning. Generally contain long fibers arranged in parallel and well-distributed order.

Worsted Count

An indirect numbering system generally used for yarns spun on the worsted system; the number of 560 yd. lengths of yarn per pound.

Wrapped Yarn

A yarn composed of one fiber as a core, wrapped with a filament or spun yarn of another. For example, spandex is frequently wrapped with nylon to improve strength and durability.

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Y

Yarn

A generic term for an assemblage of fibers or filaments, either natural or manufactured, twisted or laid together to form a continuous strand suitable for use in producing fibers.

Yarn Count

A numerical designation expressing relationship of length to weight. (See also Denier)